You know that scene in “Forrest Gump” when Bubba tells Forrest all the different ways to prepare shrimp? Well, the Gulaschmusem restaurant is a lot like that, except with gulasch. The menu lists and has pictures of gulasch made with various meats and parts of meat (chicken liver gulasch, anyone?), vegetables, fish, and rice. They even boast a sweet chocolate gulasch for dessert, which is mysteriously not pictured. I guess they want to entice the diner to order it.

Needless to say, I love this place even though it’s a vivid reminder that while I have a recipe for good gulasch (view that recipe here), I doubt my gulasch will ever be as wonderfully fantastic as that available here. I don’t think I will have quite the variety, either. For example, on my most recent visit earlier this week I enjoyed the fischgulasch:

Gulasch such as I will never make.

Gulasch such as I will never make.

My husband I and both had some of this dish and couldn’t agree on whether the base for the gravy was a fish or vegetable stock. Obviously it had paprika in it, but in what proportion to the tomato, if tomato was used at all? (I thought there was tomato, my husband didn’t.) How can I re-create a dish like this when I can’t even figure out what’s in it? This is one of the things that I will just enjoy while we are here and remember fondly.


Cafe Sacher

It rained and was in the high 40s/low 50s the entire time we were in Salzburg. After a two-hour, water-logged guided tour of the city via minivan and boat, we decided to warm ourselves up with lunch at Cafe Sacher.



No sight is more welcome on a cold and grey afternoon than a hot bowl of soup. (This is the recipe that I use to make gulaschsuppe.) Oh, wait: I can think of a sight more welcome than soup on any afternoon, grey or not:

Sacher torte & melange

Sacher torte & melange

Wiener Melange is a popular coffee drink throughout Austria; it’s similar to, but not quite, a cappuccino. I am not quite sure what differentiates a melange from a cappuccino other than, according to Wikipedia, it is made with milder coffee. Whatever the difference, it is a tasty treat and nice accompaniment to a slice of rich Sacher torte.

Sacher torte is a chocolate layer cake. There is apricot jam in between the layers, and the whole is encased with a rich chocolate ganache. It is usually served with fresh, unsweetened cream (“schlagobers”) to cut the richness of the cake. I have a couple recipes for this cake, and my husband bought me the cake form and slicing guides to make layer cakes such as this. One day…

Recipe: Fiaker Gulasch

Fiaker Gulasch from S'Piff heuriger.

Fiaker Gulasch from heuriger S’Piff.

Fiaker Gulasch is gulasch with a fried egg on top and sliced sweet/sour pickles on the side. Some versions also include a sliced roasted sausage. It is served with some form of potato on the side, either sliced rounds of boiled potato or kartoffelpuffer/rösti (fried potato rounds), as pictured here. We’re big fans of kartoffelpuffer here, so that is how I will serve our fiaker gulasch. Stay tuned for a kartoffelpuffer recipe!

Recipe: Rindsgulasch



1 kg (35 oz) onion (chopped)
2t caraway
2T tomato paste
olive oil
2 kg (71 oz) beef (diced)*
50g (1.8 oz) noble sweet paprika
2 chili peppers (chopped)
500 ml (2 C) beef broth
50 ml (about 1/8C) vinegar
3 cloves of garlic (chopped)
1t marjoram
500g (18 oz) bell pepper (diced)
30g (1.1 oz) plain flour
salt, pepper

Fry the onions, caraway, and tomato paste in enough olive oil to coat the bottom of the pot for 5 minutes. Add the meat and brown it on all sides. Add the paprika powder and chili peppers, stir to coat meat with seasonings. Add hot beef broth, cover, bring to a boil. Stir in the vinegar, garlic, and marjoram and return to a boil. Cover. Sauté bell pepper in oil in a separate pot and add it to the pot with the meat. Stir flour with a little cold water and press into the goulash through a sieve. Season with salt and pepper (add more broth to cover meat if necessary). Cover and simmer until the meat is thoroughly cooked and well stewed, 2-4 hours.

* The recipe calls for “Rindsbacken”, which translates to “bake beef.” I think this means use a cut of beef that you would use for a stew or roast; I used gulasch fleisch, which is similar to stewing beef.

Recipe: Gulaschsuppe

Goulash soup, not to be confused with goulash stew. Serve with a hearty dark bread such as rye and a dunkel (dark) beer, and you have a meal.

200g (7 oz) diced onions
4 T vegetable oil
300 g (10.55 oz) beef, cut into 2″ cubes
20g (3/4 oz) paprika powder
20g (3/4) tomato paste
a few tablespoons water
750 ml (25.4 oz/about 3 cups) beef stock
3 garlic cloves, finely minced
caraway seeds
200g (7 oz) potatoes, peeled and diced

1. Heat oil, then fry onions until starting to turn golden. Add beef and fry until onions are golden brown and meat is browned on all sides.

2. Add paprika and tomato paste, and slowly add in water and stir until the paprika and tomato combine and turn into a thick gravy.

3. Add beef stock and season (to taste) with salt, pepper, garlic, caraway, and marjoram. Bring to a boil, then cover pan and simmer for 30 minutes.

4. Add the potatoes and cook the soup until the potatoes are tender.

NOTE: Austrian grocery stores sell packages of meat specifically for gulasch: “gulasch fleisch.” I think this is the same cut of meat that’s sold as “stewing beef” in the U.S.